Back in the early nineties, I worked at Lake Crescent Lodge as a waiter/bartender/cook. I moved directly there from Birmingham, Alabama. I was not prepared for the magnificence of the Olympic Peninsula.
Lake Crescent is located on the northern edge of Olympic National Park. Highway 101 runs along its southern shore. Once part of the Elwha River watershed, Lake Crescent was hit by a massive landslide some 10,000 years ago, originating from Mount Storm King. To the east of this landslide lies shallow, privately-owned Lake Sutherland (which does have a few public beaches and boat launches), and to the west lies eight mile long, two mile wide, 632 feet deep Lake Crescent. There are a few private residences that were grandfathered when the park was formed in 1938. These will all eventually become public, but the owners seem to be in no hurry to facilitate that process.
Bounded on the south by the 5,000+ foot Aurora Ridge, on the north by 3,000 foot Pyramid Mountain, on the east by 4,000+ Storm King, on the west by Mount Muller, and drained by the Lyre River, Lake Crescent sits 585 feet above sea level. It is filled with runoff from the surrounding terrain, mostly via Barnes Creek.
Barnes Creek is magical. Lake Crescent Lodge and the Olympic Park Institute both sit on its delta, which comprises most of the land situated between Highway 101 and the lake (a notable exception being the promontory at La Poel). The creek's headwaters gather at Lookout Dome, itself ten miles from the lake shore. There's a trail that more or less follows the creek from delta to source, and the entire delta is easily explored.
Let's take a photo journey up the creek from the lake to Marymere Falls, a waterfall roughly a mile upstream. These pictures were all taken in 1992 using a disposable camera.
Lake Crescent
The water is cold and clear, and the sides drop away quite steeply. Lake Crescent fills a deep valley left behind by the Cordilleran ice sheet.
The sun always rises over Aurora Ridge, and in winter it sets there too. The top of the ridge is decidedly subalpine.
And here we see the lodge. That's the dining room in the foreground, including a covered porch. The veranda further back was part of the bar.
Red Alders love the creek. They thrive in disturbed soil, and every year the creek bed changes.
One last look at the lake before heading upstream.
You can tell I took this photo in September, there's hardly any water! I think in the end it's a good thing, because I got some interesting pictures that would have been impossible in high water.
Like this one. The water here is actually over a foot deep, and moving briskly. In April, you can't see these rocks, because the water is huge, and you can't get even close to them.
This magnificent Douglasfir stands over 200 feet tall and is hundreds of years old. It grows on an older part of the delta a few yards from the creek. It is part of a mature stand of virgin old-growth that dates from a fire that occurred approximately 400 years ago.
Here's a deep hole behind the root system of a fallen tree near the huge Doug fir. The creek changes course every year, usually in small increments like this.
This is the only picture I have of the old foot bridge, now gone and replaced with a bigger, accessible bridge slightly upstream. The bridge was an old, footworn Doug fir trunk with a rickety handrail nailed on. It had serious charm. The new bridge is better, but I miss the old one.
Another montage, this one a little better. It's an enormous Bigleaf maple. Each of those trunks is about three feet in diameter. The crown is high and huge. It's sitting on the edge of the high-water channel. The old foot bridge is behind me.
This is the view from the old foot bridge, looking upstream. A Bigleaf maple, dripping with licorice fern grows nearly horizontal across the creek.
Here we look upstream from under the Old Highway 101 bridge over Barnes Creek. The bridge was built in 1945.
This Grand Fir is almost 200 feet tall, and still pretty young. It grows on the side of Old 101, yards from the bridge.
Here we see a Dipper in its natural habitat. Or rather, we don't. It's in the rapids, looking for nymphs or something.
The same area, back a bit. Dippers walk around underwater like it's nothing, and I didn't want to lose him.
Finally! Barely visible, the Dipper is just left of center, in the water.
More soon...
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